There aren't many topics as exciting as building code. But as we learned in the previous post below, every home must be built to code, but code is bare minimum. Just because a building meets code doesn't necessarily mean it's quality. Read on for ways builders can pony up and go beyond building to code.

The next time you hear a builder say ‘we build to code’, ask what parts of the code they are referring to.  A few code requirements, like having more electric outlets than will probably ever be needed, seem like overkill.  Most sections of the building code, however, represent the bare minimum required to insure the safety of a building’s occupants and have little to do with the actual quality of construction.  A home that is ‘built to code’ may in fact be lacking in areas that can significantly impact the durability and performance of your home, including:

1. Exterior Trim – Building code allows exterior wood trim to be as close as 8” to the ground, where termites are more likely dwell.  Code also allows wood at roof edges and behind gutters where rot is likely to occur.
a. PVC trim looks like traditional wood trim but is moisture and insect proof, and will hold a coat of paint much longer than wood, meaning little to no maintenance is required. More info here http://www.versatex.com/advantages-pvc-trim.php .

2. Water Heaters – Code only requires one water heater, and does not specify its efficiency, size, or recovery rate (how fast water is heated).  Our company installs twin 50 Gallon Powervent water heaters.  This type of installation offers generous hot water reserve, as well as:
a. Higher energy efficiency than traditional ‘natural vent’ gas water heaters
b. Less wait time for hot water than electric or natural vent gas
c. Flexibility – one water heater can be shut down if not needed, further reducing energy consumption.

3. Foundation Drainage – Only an exterior footing drain and a ‘mechanical means’ for removing water around the foundation are required by code.  A comprehensive system should have interior and exterior footing drains, as well as a heavy duty sump pump with a battery backup pump.
a. Actually two separate pumps, main pump should be 120 volt, heavy duty.  Second backup pump should be a 12 volt unit powered by a trickle charged battery system with alarm.  This design provides extra protection against leaks in case of power outage during a heavy rain storm or failure of the main pump.

4. Radon Mitigation – Neither code nor local criteria mandate a radon control system, even though radon has been found in our area.  Installing an exhaust pipe for a radon abatement system during the rough-in phase makes it simple to vent (through the roof) so a fan can be easily installed should radon ever be found.
a. Much easier, and better looking, than retrofit exterior ‘downspout’ type radon vent pipes that must be attached to the outside of the house.

5. Windows – Building code requirements allow windows with U-factors as high as .4 (the U-factr measures heat loss).  Our standard window is Argon filled, double pane glass with LOE-366 coatings, providing a U-factor of .3 (a 25% increase in performance).
a. Windows are the greatest source of heat loss in a home.  Energy efficient windows reduce this loss, and therefore energy usage and costs.